Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.