‘Every Cook Ought to Study Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots.

When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.

Nathaniel Ferrell
Nathaniel Ferrell

Lena Visser is an urban geographer and writer passionate about sustainable city design and public space revitalization.